Daring Cooks Challenge: Skate, traditional flavors powdered (slightly altered)

This is my first challenge as part of the Daring Kitchen challenges. The July Daring Cook challenge was hosted by Sketchy. The title of the recipe seemed not to make sense: Skate, Traditional Flavors Powdered (slightly altered). At first reading I thought I might have gotten myself into a challenge too big for my britches. However, upon re-reading, I realized that the recipe was long, but the steps were fairly simple. This would be fun.

In summary, the recipe called for drying various herbs and fruits then pulverizing them into fine powders. The powders are then artfully arranged on each diners plate, into which the poached fish is dipped for a flavor burst. The poaching liquid is buerre monte ... hot, emulsified butter. The use of the powders is, as I understand, a new trend called Molecular Cuisine.

I am lucky in that I have my Mom's old food dehydtrator and it still works. This is almost a miracle since the apparatus is 30 years old ... or more. The hinges on the door are broken, but the door leans against the opening. The feet on one side are gone, so it needs a lift; I use a tile trivet. One of the trays is broken into two pieces, so the tray goes in first then the plastic screen (loaded) is slid in carefully. What was once a bright white plastic is now an aged yellowy plastic. But, the thing works and was a joy to use because it was if my Mom was helping me with this challenge.

I decided that because this was my first venture into Molecular Cuisine I would follow the recipe as given, with a few minor adjustments to fit my guests tastes. My guests were my husband, Dennis, my son, Wylie, and his wife, Shawna. Dennis and I are not fond of cilantro and I love sweet basil; you guessed it, I subbed basil for cilantro. Shawna is a vegetarian, so I chose to serve tofu for our 2 pm dinner on Sunday afternoon. I thought that it would be fun if each guest decorated their own plates with the powders.


Friday evening I washed and patted dry fresh flat leafed parsely and basil. After the stems were trimmed the herbs were layered onto the dehydrator trays. At 10 pm the trays were loaded and the dehydrator turned on. Next, I began preparing for Saturday's dehydrating session. The lemons were zested, poached and patted dry. The Onion was chopped and refrigerated. The capers were rinsed and rinsed and rinsed, again.

The next morning as I was unloading the trays of nicely dried parsely and basil I realized I forgot to blanch the parsley. Oh, well. The trays were layered with the candied lemon zest, the capers and onions. The dehydrater was back in full swing and the crushing of the parsley and basil began.

The first crushing involved a handful of dried leaves placed on a spatter screen over a bowl and rubbed across the screen. The second step was rubbing the now coarsely powdered leaves through a finer mesh ... in this case my tiny sieve. The resulting powder was finely grained.

Toasting the powdered milk took longer than the recipe stated. For me it took four rounds in the oven, tossing and mixing the milk each round. While the milk was toasting I pulverized the freeze dried banana chips in the coffee grinder to a texture that resembled the powdered milk. When the two were eventually blended together I was surprised at the lovely color and delicate taste.

In the evening it was time to turn the lemon peel (zest), onion, and capers into powder. They dried into hard little chunks that required pulverizing in the coffee grinder. Then, the course grind was sifted in the fine mesh strainer. The little chunks that remained after straining were crushed in the mortar and pestle. Originally I thought I might serve the powders unblended, however it became apparent that the sugar content of the onon and lemon powders caused them to clump. After blending them, however, they remained nicely powdery. I had a little "ah-oh" with the lemon powder and citric acid ... because my scale isn't accurate enough I ended up with too much citric acid creating a very ... VERY ... sour powder. Seems like a good excuse for a new and better scale to me ... for me!


Not wanting to serve the tofu in the usual cubes, nor wanting to serve a plank of tofu, I cut and shaped the tofu into a somewhat fish fillet shape. When I slid them into the buerre monte, I realized I ended up with one end rather blunt ... oh well, next time will be better.




While the beans were cooking and the tofu was poaching we began decorating our plates with the powders. I decorated my plate first showing the basic method of spooning, leveling (a shake of the plate) and twirling the powders.

I laid out various tools: spoon, forks, and knife. Everyone had fun decorating their plates with powders. I was quite pleased that they all wanted to play and experiment, not wanting to copy anyone.


I was surprised at how easy and quickly the buerre monte came together. It's as easy as making mayonaise ... keeping in mind until emulsion is apparent that the butter should be added slowly. After that, the cooking went quickly. While the green beans were cooking, it seemed as if the cooking liquid would never evaporate, but they did. The beans stayed bright green. In the photo you can see the buerre monte kept warm on the back burner with a heat tempering plate. Next. the tofu was poached. I wasn't sure about poaching the tofu fillets, but nothing ventured nothing gained. They turned out beautiful, however, I think they could have been trimmed smaller. They were large "fillets".


Sooooo .... how did everyone like their dinner? The onion/caper powder was a big hit, as was the brown butter powder. Everyone thought the lemon powder was so sour it over powered all the others. The basil/parsley powder was delicate, which surprised us all. Wyie was the winner of the powders because he used all of his, including the lemon powder. You might think that he put less lemon powder on his plate, but that is not the case. We all used a teaspoon of each powder. Dennis, who does not favor tofu ("sponge") commented, "well, yup, it's tofu .... but, I DID each it all" I guess it wasn't so bad for him, in the end. But, next time, I think he'd prefer the fish.

There was enough left over powder to share; Wylie and Shawna were eager to go home a use them .... especially the brown butter powder. The unused buerre monte was pored into a container an refrigerated. I use it whenever I need butter for cooking.

The Challenge as it was given:

The Challenge: Skate, traditional flavors powdered (slightly altered)
Reveal Date: July 14th

This is a dish from Grant Achatz, found in the Alinea cookbook - page 230. I picked a recipe that could be completed without having to order a bunch of specialized chemicals or powders. Just a little work and you can make this, the techniques are not very hard and only require a few tools.

Onto the recipe:

Skate, Traditional Flavors Powdered - with changes

• 4 skate wings
• * Beurre monte
• * 300g fresh green beans
• sea salt/kosher salt
• 1 banana
• 454g butter - 4 sticks
• 300g lemons
• 5g citric acid/vitamin c tablet
• 150g cilantro
• 150g parsley
• 100g dried banana chips
• 300g spray dried cream powder (or powdered milk)
• 100g cup minced red onion
• 200g capers (brined, not oil)

* For green beans, slice each beans into very thin rounds (2 mm)
* Beurre Monte - 454g butter (4 sticks, 1 pound) cubed and cold, 60g water. In a small saucepan, bring the water to a boil, remove from heat and whisk in the butter 1 cube at a time. This should from an emulsion. Keep this heated, but under 195 degrees. The emulsion will not break - this is your poaching liquid.

Powders - prepare ahead of time
caper / onion
lemon powder
cilantro/parsley powder
'brown butter' powder

Powders
once dried, all powders should be pulsed in a coffee grinder/spice mill/morter and pestle then passed through a chinois or fine mesh strainer.

citrus powder
300g lemons
1000g simple syrup
5g citric acid/vitamin c tablet

zest 300g of lemons (10.6 oz), remove the pith from the zest and poach in the simple syrup three times. dry with paper towels and move to a dehydrating tray. 130 for 12 hours. pulse the zest in a coffee grinder, pass through chinois, and mix with citric acid/vitamin C powder.

If you do not have a dehydrator, place in microwave for 8 to 10 minutes at medium powder. Once dried, follow the other instructions.

cilantro/parsley powder
150g cilantro
150g parsley

blanch the parsley in boiling saltwater for 1 second, submerge the leaves in ice water for 3 minutes. Dry on paper towels and place on dehydrator tray. 130 for 12 hours. grind and pass through chinois.

If you do not have a dehydrator, place in microwave for 30 seconds, turn over leaves and microwave for another thirty seconds. They should be dry by now, pulse in coffee grinder, pass through chinois and reserve.

onion powder
100g cup minced red onions

dehydrator - 130 for 12 hours
microwave at medium power for 20 minutes.

pulse in grinder, pass through chinois

Caper powder
200g capers (get the ones packed in brine/vinegar)

run the capers under cold water for two minutes to remove some of the brine.
dry on paper towels and dehydrate for 12 hours at 130 degrees.
microwave instructions are unclear. Dry them as much a possible with paper towels, the microwave on medium for 1 minute. Check the moisture content and stir them. repeat for 30 second intervals until they are dry. If you use this method, pleas post the time needed to dry the capers.

Once dry, pulse and sift the powder. Mix it with the onion powder.

Brown Butter powder

100g Dried banana chips (unsweetened if possible - many are coated in honey - the freeze dried ones would be brilliant)
300g spray dried cream powder

If you cannot find the cream powder, you can substitute Bob's red mill non fat dry milk powder, or even carnation instant milk powder. The substitutions will alter the flavor a little, but you will still get the general idea.

preheat the oven to 350 degrees, sift the cream powder into a fine layer on a silpat or on parchment. bake for 4 minutes, then remove for heat. If it bakes for too long, it will burn. Be very cautious with all powders in the oven. They all go from browned to burnt in a few seconds.

grind the banana chips in a coffee grinder and mix with the toasted cream powder. Pass this through a chinois and reserve.

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* For green beans, slice each beans into very thin rounds (2 mm)
* Beurre Monte - 454g butter (4 sticks, 1 pound) cubed and cold, 60g water. In a small saucepan, bring the water to a boil, remove from heat and whisk in the butter 1 cube at a time. This should from an emulsion. Keep this heated, but under 195 degrees. The emulsion will not break - this is your poaching liquid.

Skate
Prepare the skate - 50G v shaped cuts are recommended
Bring 100g water, 100g beurre monte, and green bean rounds to a boil over high heat. Cook until the water has evaporated (about 3 minutes), when the pan is almost dry, remove it from heat and season with 3g salt

bring 300g water and 300g beurre monte to simmer over medium heat, add skate wings and simmer for 2 minutes. Remove the pan from heat and flip the wing over and let rest in pan for two more minutes. Transfer to warming tray lined with parchment and season with 5 grams of fine sea salt.

Plating

Take the tip of a small spoon and make a small mound of the citrus powder, the onion-caper powder, and the cilantro parsley-powder. Swirl these around in a hurricane type pattern. I found that it is easier, and you get finer lines if you lightly shake the plate to flatten out the mounds, then swirl the spoon through it to get the pattern.

peel the remaining banana into very think slices (3mm) fan three slices on the plate, place green beans on top and place skate wing portion on top. On the tall edge, sprinkle the brown butter powder.

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Substitutions
The Skate can be replaced with flounder or cod.
If you can get skate that is not 'prepared' IE - Skinned- get the fish monger to prepare it for you.

The powdered cream can be omitted completely, just replace it with more banana powder, or pineapple powder. Possibly non dairy creamer, but I have NO idea what would happen if you tried to brown it.

The poaching liquid is pretty much butter - it could be replaced with other poaching methods. Water, wine, bay leaf, garlic clove, pepper, etc. Try to go easy on the salt in the liquid if you use a replacement.

Disclaimer - the sample dish was made with cod because Skate was not available at the time in Richmond. Whole Foods usually carries it. Check your fish markets before you head out to buy some.